The Grim Origins of 'Gluten-Free'

It took an act of war for doctors to learn how to treat celiac disease.

By Douglas G Adler
Apr 22, 2019 5:00 AMDec 13, 2019 10:21 PM
Amsterdam Hunger Winter 1914 - Nederlands Fotomuseum
During the 1944-45 "Hunger Winter," a man searches for fuel and food at an illegal rubbish dump in Amsterdam-Zuid. (Credit: Cas Oorthuys/Nederlands Fotomuseum)

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The term “gluten-free” seems to be everywhere these days: food labels, restaurant menus, cookbooks, even water bottles. While it’s become trendy to avoid gluten — a protein found in popular foodstuffs like bread and pasta — humans have safely and enthusiastically consumed it for thousands of years. Food containing gluten remains a staple of the human diet around the world, providing sustenance to billions.

So why this apparent backlash against gluten?

While the protein is a vital part of the human diet, for some people, it really is unsafe. The path to this seemingly simple discovery was long and tortuous, dating back to a particularly bleak period of World War II.

Holland was suffering in the winter of 1944-45. The country was under siege, and the Nazis had cut off vital supplies. Starvation was rampant. The combination of extreme cold and famine came to be known as the Hongerwinter, Dutch for “Hunger Winter.”

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